Katsushige Anryu – Sujihiki 270mm
R4,350.00
Katsushige Anryu
Knife making is in Anryu san’s blood. His family started as knife makers in the early 1870’s. He started apprenticing as a knife maker under his father, Katsutoshi Anryu, after graduating high school in 1959. He is a fourth generation knife maker and has been working as a blacksmith for well over 50 years. Anryu San is also one of the founders of Takefu Knife Village in Echizen, Japan.
The blade is made from Aogami # 2 (Blue Paper # 2 ) steel with a stainless steel cladding. This adds strength to the inner core while protecting it from corrosion.
You can also purchase a Sabitoru Rust Eraser and Camellia oil for maintenance.
Sujihiki:
Sujihikis can be seen in one of two ways: first, as analogs to the familiar western styled slicer; or second, as a western styled, double bevel version of the single bevel Yanagiba famously used for preparing sushi. Sujihiki Slicers commonly range from 240mm to 300mm.
Knife Specifications:
Knife Shape: Sujihiki
Blade Length: 270mm
Steel Type: Aogami # 2 (Blue Steel # 2)
Rockwell Hardness: 61:63
Handle Material: Rosewood handle
Delivery time: 3 to 5 Working days
FREE SHIPPING for orders over R500
We use Payfast and EFT as payment method.
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist or cleave the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
Out of stock
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RYUTOKU knives are manufactured by Fuji Cutlery Co., Ltd. The sister company of Tojiro applies advanced construction techniques and modern materials, combined with high quality Japanese quality control to produce great knives suitable for chefs, home cooks and professionals at a great price.
This set includes the following:
1 x RYUTOKU – Yanagiba 210mm
1x RYUTOKU – Deba 150mm
Yanagiba:
The Yanagiba is like a carving knife on rocket boosters. It slips through food effortlessly and crazy sharpness of the single edge means you will never struggle. Its a true gateway knife for people wanting to get into single bevel knives and learn some cool tricks. When slicing with a yanagiba the blade will naturally want to pull to the left on a right handed knife. (The opposite is true for is true for a lefty. ) As the driver of the blade, you must take control and tell it where to go. Sounds tricky, but you will get the hang of it after a while. Still the Yanagiba can take years to master.
Deba:
The Deba is one of the first knives a sushi chef would use when preparing fish. Mainly used for filleting fish but can also be used for doing some poultry work.
These knives, and a considerable amount of skill on the chefs part, are the reason sushi looks so good and why the fish is cleaned so perfectly. Done properly, the bones will be in one pile with almost no meat on them and the meat will be completely bone-free, perfect fillets.
Most debas are single bevel meaning the knife is ground on one side only and the back side of the knife is flat. Single bevels knives have more acute angles on their edges that excel at cutting softer, thinner product like fish but in return require a different skill set to use and sharpen.
FREE SHIPPING for orders over R850
Delivery time: 2 to 3 Working days
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist, cleave or prise the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
RYUTOKU – Yanagiba 210mm
RYUTOKU
RYUTOKU knives are manufactured by Fuji Cutlery Co., Ltd. The sister company of Tojiro applies advanced construction techniques and modern materials, combined with high quality Japanese quality control to produce great knives suitable for chefs, home cooks and professionals at a great price.
Yanagiba:
The Yanagiba is like a carving knife on rocket boosters. It slips through food effortlessly and crazy sharpness of the single edge means you will never struggle. Its a true gateway knife for people wanting to get into single bevel knives and learn some cool tricks. When slicing with a yanagiba the blade will naturally want to pull to the left on a right handed knife. (The opposite is true for is true for a lefty. ) As the driver of the blade, you must take control and tell it where to go. Sounds tricky, but you will get the hang of it after a while. Still the Yanagiba can take years to master.
This is a true slicing machine for people who love excellence.
Delivery time: 3 to 5 Working days
FREE SHIPPING for orders over R850
Delivery time: 2 to 3 Working days
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist, cleave or prise the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
Tojiro DP -150mm Boning knife
Tojiro is one of the few manufactures in Japan that performs all of its manufacturing processes in-house. They choose this path of integrated in-house production, from the careful selection of materials to after sale service. The reason why they are able to deliver high quality lies in their commitment to being directly involved in every aspect of making their knives.
Boning knife:
Thes boning knives are made in the traditional Western Style. These Boning knives are rigid without any flex and can be treated a bit more roughly than a Gyuto, but you still need to think about what you are doing.
Great for jobs such as Frenching lamb racks, tunnel boning or breaking down primal cuts of meat.
Knife Specifications
Knife Type: Boning
Material: VG10 Stainless
Blade Length: 165mm
Rockwell Hardness: 60:61
Delivery time: 3 to 5 Working days
FREE SHIPPING for orders over R500
We use Payfast and EFT as payment method.
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist, cleave or prise the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
Scanlen – Santoku
Scanlen Knives
Scanlen knives are produced locally with expert crafting techniques by Frederick Scanlen, a South African born knife artisan who, after schooling, travelled to various parts of the world to learn the art of knife making. Frederick uses all types of indigenous and exotic woods, often recycling previously used wood and utilises high quality steels for the construction of his blades.
The Santoku is constructed San Mai (Three Layer Construction) using UHC, an ultra-high carbon steel which, due to its high carbon content, can be heat treated to high hardness levels.
Frederick Scanlen heat treat the steel to its highest hardness levels because he strives to maintain a good balance between edge retention, sharpness and durability. The blade is cladded in softer stainless steel which provides the knife with corrosion-resistant properties.
The handle is octagonal in shape, made from Kiaat and Walnut which is durable and incredibly comfortable in the hand. The Santoku is a multi-purpose knife with a blade profile that allows for great versatility and due to this as well as its smaller form factor, it has become very popular in Western kitchens.
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist or cleave the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
Tadafusa HK 2 – Santoku 170 mm
Tadafusa
Tadafusa was founded in 1948 in Sanjo, Niigata Prefecture. They began by making various tools including sickles, short swords and fishing knives, they have moved to specialize in kitchen knives.
The Blade is made for SLD Steel by Hitachi. The SLD Steel is cladded with Softer Stainless steel.
The handle is made with a semi-charcoaled chestnut wood handle that helps with corrosion and durability.
HRC 60-62
Santoku:
This is also a multi-purpose knife, but with a slight vegetable bias. Santoku means ‘Three Virtues’ or ‘To solve Three Problems’. The virtues or problems are slicing, dicing and mincing. Santoku is usually found in 160mm – 190mm lengths. These are more and more popular in Western kitchens due to the unique shape and smaller easy to handle size.
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist, cleave or prise the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
Tadafusa HK 4 – Gyuto 210mm
Tadafusa
Tadafusa was started in Sanjo, Japan by Sone Torasaburo in 1948. They made various kinds of knives and sickles using traditional forging techniques.
They gradually started specialising in fishing and kitchen knives for home and professional use.
Tadafusa has a team of highly trained blacksmiths that produces hand-forged knives of very high quality.
The Blade is made for SLD Steel by Hitachi. The SLD Steel is cladded with Softer Stainless steel.
The handle is made with a semi-charcoaled chestnut wood handle that helps with corrosion and durability.
The Gyuto, an all round knife which can be used for various tasks, is the Japanese version of a chef’s knife. Gyuto’s generally have a flatter blade profile near the heel to aid in chopping, a rounder belly for rock chopping and a sharp, pointed tip for precision cutting.
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist, cleave or prise the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
Sakai Kikumori – Hand-Forged Blue 1 Damascus Nakiri
Sakai Kikumori
With a passionate devotion to knife-making as well as working with some of the most skilled craftsman in Japan, Sakai Kikumori has been making cutlery of incredible quality and performance since its inception in 1926.
The kikumori Nakiri is constructed using a core steel of Blue #1, a high carbon steel well known for its edge retention abilities and ease of sharpening. The blade is heat treated to 64 HRC, making it an incredibly hard blade capable of holding very fine, extremely sharp edge for prolonged periods of time. The core steel is cladded in softer Iron with a Damascus finish and the handle is made from Ho Wood with a Buffalo Horn ferrule.
The Nakiri, an under-utilised knife in Western kitchens however massively popular in Eastern kitchens, has a straight blade profile which is optimal for push cutting through vegetables and the added weight of the blade also results in it falling through food with less resistance. The Nakiri makes quick work of mountains of vegetable prep wether you are at home or in a professional setting.
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist or cleave the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
Sakai Kikumori – Hand-Forged Shirogami Kurouchi Gyuto 210mm
Sakai Kikumori
With a passionate devotion to knife-making as well as working with some of the most skilled craftsman in Japan, Sakai Kikumori has been making cutlery of incredible quality and performance since its inception in 1926.
The Kikumori Kurouchi 210mm Gyuto is Hand-Forged using a core steel of Shirogami #2 , a carbon steel which is often referred to as White Carbon Steel. It is the purest carbon steel and is incredibly easy to sharpen as well as having good edge retention and insane sharpness. Carbon steel, especially White Carbon Steel, requires special care as they are very reactive however, it is less likely to rust when a strong patina has formed.
Sakai Kikumori uses the following Forging Process:
- Steel welding
The fire kiln is heated by propane gas and the inside temperature is 1,100-1,200 centigrade.
Carbon steel is forged into soft iron at 900 centigrade.
Borax and iron oxides are the glue.
- Forging
Shaping the red-hot blade with a belt hammer.
The surface size of blade will become triplicated by being hammered.
The particle of steel becomes fine by being hammered, and the blade has ductility.
The materials splattered from the surface of the blade when being hammered is iron oxide, called beto.
- Annealing
The blade heated at 740 centigrade is rest in the straw ash for one night to cool down slowly to make the blade softer and to remove the internal stress(distortion).
The straw ash retains heat(hold heat)
- Cold forging and shaping
The knife is hammered at room temperature to remove hammer marks to flatten.
- Quenching
The blade is covered with mud which protects it from sharp changes in high temperature.
The blade is heated again to 750-800 centigrade to toughen the steel, and the blade is quickly cooled in a water bath to ensure hardness.
- Tempering
To give strength and toughness to the steel.
Care Instructions:
- Wash and dry the blade by hand immediately after use. Dishwashers are very bad for all knives.
- Use a soft cloth to wash the blade. Avoid abrasive dish scrubbers and powders as these can damage the finish of your beautiful knife.
- Do not cut through bones. You can certainly cut along/beside bones, but do not cut into bones. This can, at worst, chip the blade.
- Never use this knife to cut frozen food. I’m sure you have a 4×4 somewhere in your kitchen for this job.
- Never twist or cleave the blade.
- Always use a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on bamboo, glass, marble, slate, a plate, china, marble, arborite or anything harder than steel.
- Store knives in a way that the blades will not knock into each other.
- Never transport knives unprotected.
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